Understanding Paraphenylenediamine (PPD) Allergies and Safe Hair Colour Alternatives
Overview of Paraphenylenediamine (PPD)
Paraphenylenediamine (PPD) is a chemical primer that is extensively used in permanent hair dyes and is also found in black henna tattoos.
PPD and Allergic Reactions
PPD is known to provoke allergic reactions, which can range from mild to moderate skin irritation to severe symptoms. These severe reactions often include pronounced and painful swelling of the eyelids, accompanied by blisters and weeping sores. The affected areas, typically the face, scalp, and head, are not only painful but also feel tight and uncomfortable.
In rare situations, exposure to PPD may result in anaphylaxis. This is a rapid, life-threatening allergic response characterised by swelling of the tongue and throat, which can cause difficulty in breathing. Such a reaction requires immediate medical attention.
Living with a PPD Allergy
If you are allergic to PPD, it is a lifelong condition and you will need to search for safe alternatives for hair colouring.
Safe Hair Colour Alternatives
One safe alternative is Wella Koleston Perfect ME+, a permanent hair colour formulated to protect your hair. It does not contain PPD or PTD and is designed to lower the risk of developing a new allergy by approximately 60%.
How Allergies Develop
Allergic reactions occur when the immune system mistakes PPD for a dangerous invader. When PPD comes into contact with the skin, it undergoes a chemical change that primes the immune system. Upon subsequent exposure, the immune system sends cells to attack the perceived invader, which is when the allergic reaction becomes evident.
The Importance of Skin Testing
Many clients believe that having had hair colour for years means they are safe from reactions and do not require a skin test. However, sensitivity to PPD can develop at any time, so even those with a long history of hair colouring need regular skin tests.
Limitations of Alternative Products
Although Wella Koleston ME+ technology reduces the risk of allergic reactions, it does not eliminate it completely. It is crucial to understand that if you have already experienced a reaction, you may have another even when using this product. Essentially, no product is entirely fail-safe. In this scenario we will conduct a skin test prior to each colour application to make sur you’ve not developed an allergy in the weeks inbetween your last colour.
Personal Experience with PPD Allergies
Having been a hairdresser since 1984, I have witnessed three definite allergic reactions to PPD and/or PTD.
The first occurred before 1996, when skin testing was not a requirement for hair insurance, nor were records routinely kept. As a mobile hairdresser in Leeds, I decided to perform a skin test on a pregnant client before her next colour appointment. The result was alarming: immediately after application, the client felt stinging, and a thin sliver of skin peeled away, leaving a red, shiny area. I was relieved to have done the skin test, as colouring her entire scalp could have been dangerous.
The second reaction happened during a training day at a college in Leeds. The client had previously reacted to hair colour but hoped to avoid another reaction with a different product. The reaction was immediate, resulting in a blistered, red area resembling a small cold sore.
The third case occurred in December 2018, involving a young client who had used various box colours and needed her hair restored to good condition. After regular trims and conditioning treatments, I conducted a skin test, which showed no immediate reaction. However, after the hair colour was applied, she later reported severe discomfort and hives. She sought medical attention and recovered with antihistamines. I suspect she may have had a mild reaction to the skin test but did not mention it, possibly thinking it was insignificant. Many people underestimate the importance of skin testing until they experience a severe reaction. In this case, thorough record keeping protected me when her family considered legal action.
More recently, I am seeing more clients with a PPD/PTD allergy which is why I decided to write this post. Currently, I have 3 clients who came to me having had allergic reactions to hair colour who now have their hair coloured using Wella Koleston ME+.
Legal and Insurance Considerations
Failing to perform a skin test is now regarded as negligent under the Health & Safety at Work Act. Most salon insurance policies will be invalidated if a claim arises and there is no documented skin test showing no reaction.
I also use an ammonia and PPD free colour from the Sensus range and this will be covered in the next blog post.
If you have experienced an allergic reaction to hair colour and would like to come in for a skin test with Wella KP ME+ book for a colour consultation appointment using the booking facility across social media and on this website. If you use the booking app make sure to add a comment in the notes that you’ve an allergy to usual hair colour. Alternatively feel free to message me via 07957216017 or email beautifulhair@mangohairdesign.co.uk
Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed it, I welcome any comments via text or email.
Julie